As we have mentioned before, Georgetown is a winter's destination for many boaters. It offers a large protected harbor with easy access to supplies, medical care, transportation and a large social network. It is also very pretty with long beautiful beaches and breathtaking views from the hilltops. At any given time there are as many as 150 boats anchored in the various spots in the area.
For many of the people who cruise the Bahamas, Georgetown marks the furthest south they will venture.
There is a group of islands south of Georgetown called the Ragged Islands. We have met a few cruisers who have visited the islands and received mixed reviews. Comments included, "absolutely beautiful, remote, great shelling and fishing" and "there's nothing there, dangerous, challenging and if you go, be careful." Ian (Dan's spear fishing guru) from Stormy Weather, told Dan that in the Raggeds, "the lobster get in your way!"
We needed to go! Even before getting to Georgetown, we started looking for a good weather opportunity to be able to get there and back in a reasonable amount of time.
The guidebook describes the Ragged Islands as, "...unpopulated wilderness with only one tiny settlement, closer to Cuba than to Georgetown. There is a palpable sense of remoteness and adventure which draws a few dozen explorers each year." We had to go!
On January 12, we finished buying food and supplies, fueling up and filling every on board container with water. We left the comfort of Georgetown and headed south. After a night near the Hog Cay Cut, we pointed the bow south, unfurled the sails and enjoyed a fantastic beam reach to Flamingo Cay, our first stop. During this 50 mile trip, we saw one other cruiser.
We anchored in a small bay near the lone palm tree and settled in.
Soon we were joined by several groups of Bahamian fisherman who anchored for the night. These guys come from long distances to fish and dive for lobster in these waters, often staying out for weeks at a time.
They all gave us a friendly wave as they passed by, and soon after the boats were anchored, it became very silent in the bay.
They we gone at daybreak and we had the bay and the island to ourselves.
We hiked the beaches and found some nice shells and a remarkable number of sea beans.
We found this little guy protecting his hole. He didn't try to sell us insurance.
This is a nose cone to a plane that apparently crashed here years ago.
After our second night, we got an updated weather report warning of "repeated cold fronts, turning the wind to the north with no return to normal easterlies for the foreseeable future." We had to make a choice, head further south to seek protection, with the possibility of getting stuck for an extended period of time or head back to Georgetown. The Guidebook warns that, "getting caught in the Raggeds during a strong winter cold front poses serious challenges and can be dangerous."
We were disappointed, but the decision was easy. Back to Georgetown.
We are anchored in a good spot. We weathered the front and the 30 knot winds and torrential rain in safety of Elizabeth Harbor. As predicted, the wind has blown from the north with no signs of letting up.
Such is the cruising life. The Raggeds will be there for another time and in the meantime, we remain flexible.
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Location:Georgetown, Exuma
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