Glory Days: The Real Bahamas, March 24, 2013

As we continue our way toward Georgetown, we stopped for a night at Lee Stocking Island. We picked up a free mooring ball near the Caribbean Research Center. The Center is no longer operating due to funding cuts, but they still maintain the moorings. Off in the distance we could see two small islands called the Tug and Barge. They looked interesting so we motored over in the dinghy and were rewarded with one of the best snorkeling experiences since we got to the Bahamas. The water was clear, warm and full of fish. Dan actually scored on two more Grouper, which we had for dinner.

This is the Tug.

The whole time were we there, we were watched over by a pair of Osprey. They have a nest on the Tug and they were fishing the same waters we were.

From Lee Stocking we made another short trip to Barraterre Settlement and anchored near the town dock.

Barraterre is a settlement that is rarely visited by cruising boats. It is off the beaten track, is challenging to get to, has very limited shopping, no diesel, water, or pump out facilities. It is just our kind of place. When we went to shore, the locals seemed to know we had just anchored and were friendly and eager to help.

We were interested in getting some fresh vegetables (always a challenge in the Bahamas) and we were referred to a lady who has a house, "down by the water." We walked to her house, (she also has a car rental business) and we were told she would be right back and that she did have some fresh vegetables, but that this was a very bad year for crops due to the damage from Hurricane Sandy and the exceptionally dry weather.

When the "vegetable lady" got home, she invited us to come with her to her garden. This involved hopping in her car and heading out of town, down a gravel road then down a two-track. We got out and she helped as we picked what we wanted. We were able to get tomatoes, onions, peppers, carrots, and bananas. It is amazing that anything at all would grow in the dry, rocky soil.

After stocking up on produce, we went to a local bar and enjoyed some cracked conch while watching Michigan and Michigan State's decisive wins to move on in the NCAA Tournament.

The next morning we were in town and we met Calvin. He operates a gas pump in front of his house and is also a fisherman. Dan asked him if he could suggest a spot nearby where he might spear some lobster. Calvin suggested Hog Cay, which is a short way from our anchorage. Soon after we returned to our boat, Calvin pulled up in his boat and said he was going to go "get some lobster and fish" and did Dan want to come along? Off Dan went with a professional fisherman.