Milestones, March 28, 2013

It seems all long trips or adventures are marked by certain milestones. This Glory Days Voyage is no different.

We left Tawas Bay on August 17th and completed the Erie Canal on September 16th when we arrived in Waterford, NY.




We put the seemingly endless locks behind us, pulled out into the Hudson and prepared to become a sailboat again by restepping the mast at Catskill, NY.




Passing Lady Liberty and heading into the Atlantic on September 24 was a big milestone as it was our first venture into the ocean. We got beat up a bit by wind and waves and made an unscheduled stop in Atlantic City. We completed this leg on September 27th when we pulled in to Cape May, New Jersey.




On November 10th we pulled into Charleston, SC. This represented making it to "the south." This is a great city, where if we didn't want to go any further, we could stay and be warm, or at least pretty warm.




Miami was big because it represents the "jumping off place" to head to the Bahamas. We got to Miami on December 21st and then started listening to the weather, looking for a good forecast to enable us to get to Bimini.




The weather window opened before daylight on December 26th and we set out across the Gulf Stream and landed in Bimini in the late afternoon. Dan lowered the Quarantine Flag and hoisted the Bahama curtesy flag, marking our arrival after months of travel and years of planning.




On March 25th, after three months of travel through the islands, we arrived in Georgetown. After spending a lot of time in relatively isolated anchorages we joined the other 150 or so boats that are congregated in the Georgetown area. At the peak of the season, there were over 300 boats here. Georgetown is sometimes referred to as "summer camp for middle-aged cruisers." Many people hurry down here and spend the entire season. There is a myriad of activities including volleyball, poker, yoga, bridge, organized hikes, walks, runs and book swaps. The list goes on. The schedule is announced on radio every morning at eight o'clock.





Before moving to our current spot at Red Shanks Cay, we spent two nights anchored near Monument Beach. We hiked up to the monument and enjoyed the view.




There are sure to be more milestones, but for now we are enjoying our time here, anxiously awaiting the arrival of our daughter, Hayley, and her husband Dan2.

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Location:Red Shanks Cay, near Georgetown, Exuma

Update, Mermaid and Piano

This is a picture of the piano and mermaid that we spoke of in an earlier blog. It was placed in the water by David Copperfield, near his private island. Thanks to Scott and Brittany on Asante for the photo. We don't have an underwater camera, YET.




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Location:Georgetown, Exuma

The Real Bahamas, March 24, 2013

As we continue our way toward Georgetown, we stopped for a night at Lee Stocking Island. We picked up a free mooring ball near the Caribbean Research Center. The Center is no longer operating due to funding cuts, but they still maintain the moorings. Off in the distance we could see two small islands called the Tug and Barge. They looked interesting so we motored over in the dinghy and were rewarded with one of the best snorkeling experiences since we got to the Bahamas. The water was clear, warm and full of fish. Dan actually scored on two more Grouper, which we had for dinner.




This is the Tug.




The whole time were we there, we were watched over by a pair of Osprey. They have a nest on the Tug and they were fishing the same waters we were.




From Lee Stocking we made another short trip to Barraterre Settlement and anchored near the town dock.

Barraterre is a settlement that is rarely visited by cruising boats. It is off the beaten track, is challenging to get to, has very limited shopping, no diesel, water, or pump out facilities. It is just our kind of place. When we went to shore, the locals seemed to know we had just anchored and were friendly and eager to help.




We were interested in getting some fresh vegetables (always a challenge in the Bahamas) and we were referred to a lady who has a house, "down by the water." We walked to her house, (she also has a car rental business) and we were told she would be right back and that she did have some fresh vegetables, but that this was a very bad year for crops due to the damage from Hurricane Sandy and the exceptionally dry weather.


When the "vegetable lady" got home, she invited us to come with her to her garden. This involved hopping in her car and heading out of town, down a gravel road then down a two-track. We got out and she helped as we picked what we wanted. We were able to get tomatoes, onions, peppers, carrots, and bananas. It is amazing that anything at all would grow in the dry, rocky soil.

After stocking up on produce, we went to a local bar and enjoyed some cracked conch while watching Michigan and Michigan State's decisive wins to move on in the NCAA Tournament.

The next morning we were in town and we met Calvin. He operates a gas pump in front of his house and is also a fisherman. Dan asked him if he could suggest a spot nearby where he might spear some lobster. Calvin suggested Hog Cay, which is a short way from our anchorage. Soon after we returned to our boat, Calvin pulled up in his boat and said he was going to go "get some lobster and fish" and did Dan want to come along? Off Dan went with a professional fisherman.




A couple of hours later, Dan and Calvin were back with ten lobster and two Atlantic Spade fish.


Then it was time for rum and fish cleaning.




Tomorrow it is a reluctant goodbye to Barraterre and hello to Georgetown and more adventures.

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Location:Barraterre, Exumas

Survivor Man, March 21, 2013

Since we left Nassau on March 9th, we have been slowly working our way down the Exuma chain toward Georgetown.

We spent March 13th and 14th at Compass Cay, sitting out a cold front that featured strong northerly winds. When things moderated a bit we sailed south to Blackpoint Settlement.




Blackpoint is located on a beautiful bay. Nearly all cruisers stop here because they have the best laundromat in the Exumas. The laundry is a common gathering spot for boaters. Not only can you do your laundry, you can access free wifi, buy hardware, trade books, take a shower, get something to eat (including great carrot cake) and even get your hair cut. It is a one person operation, so if you are getting a haircut and someone else wants change for the machines, or wants a piece of cake, you have to sit and wait until the owner comes back and continues clipping.

While we were in town, Laurie did laundry and Dan hauled our water jugs to the town faucet. He was assisted in this task by a cute four year old girl named Shereal Jamaica Rolle. She lives with her Grammy in a small house near the water faucet. On each of Dan's four trips with his two 6 gallon jugs, Shereal would be there, on her purple bike to help him remove the caps and get the jugs filled without spilling, then replace the caps. She told Dan that he needed to be careful "because sometimes the white people break the spout." She then accompanied Dan on her her bike as he carried the jugs to the dinghy dock and ferried them back to Glory Days. On each return, Shereal would be waiting to help and to chat Dan up about life at Blackpoint.

Like a lot of the settlements we have visited, Blackpoint has suffered some hard times with hurricanes and the economy, but the people remain helpful and friendly.




The police station.


The health clinic.



The school.




This man was refurbishing a class C racing boat.

After completing our chores and stocking up, we moved south to Rudder Cut Cay. On the way we passed Musha Cay which is owned by the magician, David Copperfield. At Rudder Cut Cay, we snorkeled on the "piano and mermaid." This is a full sized, stainless steel grand piano adorned by a mermaid that was placed on a slab of concrete in 12 feet of water, by "David Copperfield's people." It was something to see.

After two nights at Rudder, we took the "shallow draft route" to East Pimlico Cay. This was a spot that was tricky to get to because of the shallow water, but we were rewarded with two nights and days in nearly complete seclusion. It seemed like a spot that almost no one visits.


From there it was a short sail to Leaf Cay where we got to hike the beach and snorkel.

Oh yeah, back to Survivor Man. After weeks of trying and hours in the water, Dan finally succeeded in spearing another lobster and a couple of Grouper!






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Location:Leaf Cay, Exumas

Back to the Islands, March 12, 2013

We spent a week at a dock in Nassau. Laurie's sister, Sherri, her boyfriend, Brian, daughter Samantha and her friend Ashley had flown down for spring break and stayed at a resort on Cable Beach. We were looking forward to spending time with them, but were ambivalent about Nassau. Big city, congestion and a reputation for having a lot of crime. As it turned out, not only did we have a great time with family, we loved Nassau and had many positive interactions with the locals.

One evening we were in a liquor store. The owner came by and offered assistance. Dan inquire about a brand of Bahamian beer that he had not seen before. The owner said, "would you like to try one? On the house." He then proceeded to open two bottles, one for Dan and one for himself. The two of them stood in front of the beer cooler drinking cold beer and talking about the Bahamas. The owner, Michael Simms was from Simms, Long Island. His brother still lives there and he encouraged us to look him up when we get there.

Another day, Dan was walking from the marina to the downtown district. He merged on the sidewalk with a well dressed Bahamian gentleman, who greeted Dan with, "hello Gov'nor, where are you from?" This led to a conversation that lasted about six blocks, mostly about music and a mutual dislike for American Rap. He was a broadcaster for a Nassau radio station.

We made good use of the city bus system, visiting the Straw Market, the mall, and Potter's Cay, home to numerous waterfront bars, take-away stands and fish market where among other things there was;




Fresh conch,




Dried conch,



and dried fish for sale.



They also had giant lobster.




Brian and Sherri got a conch cleaning demonstration.

After a lobster and Bahamian macaroni and cheese dinner on Glory Days, it was time to say goodbye and time for us to head back to the Exumas.




Our first stop was Normans Cay, which in the 1980's was home to a Columbian drug lord and was one of the major distribution sites for illegal drugs on their way from South American to the streets of the U.S. Now it is a sleepy, uninhabited island near the top of the Exumas.


From there it was on to Hawksbill Cay for two nights before heading to Warderick Wells. The guidebook describes Hawksbill as "one of the prettiest cays in the Bahamas." The book seems to say that about a lot of cays, but who can argue?




There is a tradition among cruisers to sound the conch shell horn as the sun sets. Having bought a conch shell horn at the market in Nassau, Dan is now able to join in with the tradition as we close out another beautiful day.

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Location:Warderick Wells, Exumas

Back to marina life, March 1, 2013

We are tied to a dock for the first time in eight weeks. We left Staniel Cay late in the day on February 26 and had a fantastic night sail north to the Nassau area. We covered the 80 miles with almost no engine time. Our kind of trip. The moon was full and the dolphins danced in our wake keeping us company.




We left Staniel Cay after spending four great days with our friends from Midland, Randy and Sherri. They had flown down to see us.




While they were with us, we sailed, snorkeled, fed the swimming pigs, and the iguanas. We ate, drank and laughed.









We taught Sherri how to stay dry while riding in the dinghy.




We also took a charter fishing trip. Dan caught a nice yellow fin tuna, Laurie caught a big barracuda. Randy hooked an Oceanic White Tip shark in the two hundred pound range. He fought it for nearly 45 minutes and got it to the boat when the captain broke it off. There was no way we were going to bring a nine foot shark in the boat. Randy was exhausted and the shark was angry, like an old man returning soup in a deli.








We will spend the next week in Nassau enjoying time with some of Laurie's family before heading back to the Exumas. A local told us that there are 400,000 people in the Bahamas and 300,000 of them live in Nassau. It has a "big city feel."



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Location:Nassau, New Providence Island, Bahamas

...but can they fly? February 18, 2013

We have been a little frustrated with our Internet access lately and we have not been able to post our blog for a while. We also have not had a lot to write about lately because we have been in the same general area for the last two weeks or so.

On February 12th, we left Cambridge Cay and returned to Staniel Cay and anchored near the Yacht Club. We were able to get some groceries, water and propane. After two nights at anchor, we moved a short to distance to a mooring ball seeking better protection from the "big blow" that was forecasted. The mooring ball is very near a spot called the Thunderball Grotto. This is an underwater cave that was the scene for parts of the James Bond movie by the same name. This is a very popular snorkel site. We watched a stream of tour boats ferry people in to swim in the caves and enjoy viewing the coral and the thousands of fish. We ventured over and thoroughly enjoyed snorkeling through the grotto and around the small island.

On February 16th, the predicted cold front rolled through right after dark with strong winds and heavy rain. This was only the second serious rain we have had in our seven weeks in the Bahamas. It was good to get the salt rinsed off the boat and we felt good being secured to a mooring ball in the strong winds. We had a rocky-rolly night, but came through it fine. In the morning we heard about a 64 foot sport-fishing boat that had broken free from the anchor and was hard aground on the rocks just around the corner from us. We listened on the radio as they got a salvage boat to come in and pull him off the rocks and the tow him to the docks.

After things settled down, we left our mooring and headed to an anchorage called Big Majors Spot. This is a large, well protected area that is very popular. One of the attractions are the swimming pigs.





The pigs hang out on the beach and when they see people coming in dinghies, they swim out looking for handouts.


These are our friends, Alex and Dave tossing food to the pigs.







The pigs will actually chase the boats, demanding more food.


After chasing, and being chased by the pigs, we moved down to the "Cruisers' Beach." This is an area that has been set up as a recreation/gathering area for cruisers, complete with a fire pit. BBQ grill, tables, benches, games and Tiki torches.




Tonight we are sharing this beautiful anchorage with about 35 other boats and four well fed pigs.






LATE BREAKING NEWS! Before we had a chance to post this blog, Dan got invited to go spear fishing with Ian from Stormy Night and finally scored on the lobster.

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Location:Big Majors Spot (near Staniel Cay)

Reunited with friends, February 9, 2013

After three nights in Farmers Cay, enjoying the festivities, we headed north and anchored behind White Point. This turned out to be a good spot to find protection from the northeast wind.





After one night at White Point, we continued north and had a great sail to Staniel Cay. Staniel is one of the "can't miss spots" in the Exumas. We anchored near the yacht club which provided easy access to the town. We will be meeting our good friends, Randy and Sherri at Staniel in a couple of weeks, so we decided to leave after one night and head further north. We stopped at Thomas Cay for a night and pretty much had it to ourselves, until...





this seaplane took off from a nearby resort and flew right by our anchorage.




In Lake Erie, at the beginning of our trip, we met George and Jackie on Heritage. At some point, we began "traveling with Heritage" and have developed a close friendship. In the Chesapeake Bay we met Dennis and Chrissie on Chances and we began "traveling with Heritage and Chances" and developed a close friendship. In late December, Dennis and Chrissie returned to Toronto to be with family for the holidays. We continued down the Florida coast with George and Jackie. They had family coming into Miami to meet them right after the first of the year so they could not cross to the Bahamas when we did.

Glory Days left Miami for the Bahamas right after Christmas, and our friends remained in Florida. We have stayed in touch, but on February 5th, while we were sitting at Thomas Cay, we got a call on the radio from Heritage, "we will be in Warderick Wells this afternoon, where are you guys?" Dan replied, "we are just south of there and we will meet you at Warderick!" Later that afternoon we had a nice reunion (and a few drinks) with Chances and Heritage and caught up on what each of us had been doing.




This is a view of the mooring field at Warderick Wells. Is there a prettier spot in the Bahamas?




The next day we took the dinghy a short distance to Kelly's Reef for some snorkeling off this beautiful beach.

The next morning we headed south to Cambridge Cay. We had been here a couple of weeks ago, but wanted to share this jewel with our friends.





We have spent the last two days snorkeling and hiking on the island.




Jackie lead the ladies in an impromptu workout on the beach.

After the workout, Laurie found a hammock to rest in.







Things are good with the Glory Days crew and we are enjoying some very relaxing time with friends.

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Location:Cambridge Cay